Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Step 8. For the whites of the eyes I use Vallejo Pale Blue. For the iris I used Vallejo Prussian Blue with a touch of grey for highlight. Eye lids were painted with a mid-tone flesh color.

The last two colors used are for extreme highlights. Outer corner of the eye, top of eye-brows, top of nose. Ratio of three drops water, one pant.

It's hard to tell with the picture but there is a pronounced contrast from upper to lower face. Total face painting session took aproximately four hours.

This SBS was designed to show what techniques I use for face painting. Most of these techniques were learned from simple observation, by finding other artist who's "style" I liked and simply emulate.

I hope this SBS helped in someway, somewhere.

Step 7. Second sitting. This is where I do alot of playing with blending paint. I take a palette w/ three wells side by side and select the three paints (see pic below) that I used for the upper cheek, nose and forehead area.

Now I "up" the water ratio. Two to three drops of water to one paint. This is where Reaper shows it woderful blending capabilities. Mix paint thoroughly. Going from dark areas to light, dip brush in well, touch side of damp towel once, unloading paint. Then lightly go over transition areas, of the forehead, cheek, nose and upper lip area just under the nose.

I'll go back and forth, from dark to light until I see a transition. Sometimes I'll mix two colors in between the wells to get desired color. Not shown, but I also put a drop of Vallejo Violet, between the wells, and added tiny amounts to help flush the cheeks a bit. Like I said, a little playing to get desired effect.

I've also filled in the eye sockets with Vallejo Burnt Umber.

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Step 6. Now I go back and add a touch of highlight using, the workhorse of the palette, Reaper Tanned Shadow. This time add more water, two drops water to one paint. And use light verticle strokes along the jaw line (sorry for the horrid pic), not much, just enough to show some highlight.

Then I go to Reaper Mahogany Brown and hit under the nose, upper lip and inner ear.

This is the end of my first sitting. Approximately one and a half, to two hours.

Step 5. This is where I do a little playing with the paint. I'll start by giving this fella a little 5 o'clock shadow. Using Reaper Tanned Shadow and Vallejo Dark Sea Grey I cover the jaw, chin area and upper lip. I'll add a mix of Tanned Shadow and Vallejo Violet in the next well over and tone it down. Ratio of water to paint is still about the same.

You'll notice I use the space in between the wells to mix and play with the colors.

Note that this is all being done in one sitting and the color wells from previous applications are still wet, with the exception of the basecoat.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Step 4. Now I use Reaper Tanned Highlight. I hit the forehead, upper cheek, bridge of nose (but not the tip), crease area under nose and upper lip line. Same ratio again. One part water, one part paint.

When applicating, I'll go over the same spot a couple times until I get the coverage I want. Always off-loading the brush on a rag before applying. The brush may look clean after touching the rag, but there still is enough pigment to cover.

I've gone back and edited the posts and added steps to make easier to follow. My apologies, I'm not a writer!

Step 3. Now I'm using Reaper Tanned Skin and will cover forehead, nose, upper cheek, "smile line", the outer lower lip area, chin and neck area. Same water to paint ratio. One drop paint, one drop water.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Step 2. Now I take the basecoat color Reaper Tanned Shadow with one equal drop of water and cover everything except under the chin, nose, eye sockets and ears.

I'll apply two even coats of this color.

Please note that I mix with the brush handle end and not the bristles, like I've seen some artist do, because acrylic paints KILL brushes. I'm stubborn because of this and will not break in a new brush until the ones I'm using are frayed and cloted with paint residue. I can be also, for lack of better words, anal about brush care and clean constantly.

When mixing in the tray, I do it as light as possible so as to not punch a hole through the foil, and have a handy rag near to wipe off the handle tip.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

I should clarify that this is just the basecoat. It took three applications to give it a solid even coat. The ratio of water to paint is typical when I apply color. Later, when I start to "blend" it will get higher in water. More later.

Caucasian face painting using Reaper and Vallejo acrylics

Step 1. The following sbs will be on my current approach to painting caucasian flesh with acrylics, namely Reaper and Vallejo paints.

I've been using Reaper flesh colors on the past 10 or so figures and I can't speak more highly of them. They are, in my opinion, superior to Vallejo. One of the appealing characteristics of Reaper paints, is there is little to no pigment seperation once mixed. They blend wonderfully and with the variety of tones, there is no need of mixing colors.

Being a quick and messy painter, I often do not take the time to wipe off excess paint off the "nipple" on Vallejo bottles, so thankfully, the bottle cap structure on the Reaper's are better than Vallejo. There is no large cavity between the cap and nipple for paint to build up and make it difficult to open and pulling the nipple out of the bottle. Thus the nipple dispenser is rarley clogged and is relatively clean every time I open it.

Plaese note that I will "spoon feed" this sbs and should have something new every day. This will be a "run on" post so I will not title this sbs with each segment, so those following via planetFigure, please continue to visit.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Raw Jaeger pic

I've been pretty lazy about taking in-progress pics of my recent pieces. This is the jaeger before being primed.

Big ol' pile of heads and armatures for the St. Privat project.